Leather & Tools

LEATHER & TOOLS

I’ve put together this list based on the items I’ve used over time. Items that are difficult to find have been replaced with alternatives I recommend.
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Category	Name	Description
leather	Freedom	Freedom leather is a Buttero-based oil pull-up smooth leather. This is a hard type of leather that reveals its true color when the leather is bent or folded. This is leather where you can feel many changes in the leather surface as you use it.
leather	Buttero	Buttero leather is vegetable leather made from the highest quality French raw hides. This is a hard type of leather. The tissue is dense and dense, and the surface is smooth and soft.
leather	Pueblo	Pueblo leather is a type of vegetable leather that is slightly scratched by rolling an iron ball on the surface of the leather. We used the vacchetta technique to process it using natural oil with added cow shin bone powder.
leather	Minerva	Minerva leather is a Plain type vegetable leather and contains a lot of oil. We used the Vachetta technique, which involves adding beef shank powder to natural oil and processing it. It feels matte at first, but as you use it, the shine increases and the color deepens.
leather	Minerva Box	Minerva box leather is a milled vegetable leather rich in natural oils. It is processed using the Vachetta method, adding cow shank powder to oil during tanning. The surface features natural embossing that appears uneven and organic. With use, the leather develops a deeper shine and character.
leather	Gaucho Oil	Gaucho Oil by Conceria La Bretagna is a Vachetta leather developed in 1974, inspired by South American gauchos. It combines a glossy grain surface with strong pull-up, creating depth and elegance through rich oils and a wide range of colors.
leather	Kansas	Kansas leather is vegetable tanned leather that is dyed and milled for softness, then finished with surface oil. While it shares the same base color as Buttero, differences in the finishing process result in distinct color tones.
leather	Camo Belly	Camo Belly leather is vegetable tanned and camo plage printed leather.
leather	Bridle	When making bridle side leather, the surface is soaked for a long time with tallow, a mixture of beef tallow and cod oil. Bridle leather is known in the UK for horse saddles and is one of the most durable vegetable-tanned leathers.
tool	Leather Cutter	This is leather knife called “Hidetsugu” made in Japan. It is inexpensive and performs well. Remember the imprint on the blade. I use the 39mm size.
tool	Utility Knife	It has a sharp blade with a 30-degree angle. This makes it especially useful for cutting leather with lots of curves. However, be careful when working with thick leather.
tool	Rotary Cutter	It is a rotary cutter that cuts by rolling a round blade. It is comfortable to use for straight cuts, and especially useful when cutting soft leather, as it helps prevent the leather from shifting.
tool	Hole Punch	This is a tool used to punch round holes in leather. Rather than buying every size at once, it’s better to add only the sizes you need, one by one.
tool	Stitching Chisel	This tool is for making stitching holes. The smooth blades make it easy to pull out after punching. I use 4mm diamond chisels in 8- and 2-tooth. Crimson Hides is also a great brand.
tool	Punching Board	I place it under the leather when punching to protect the edge of the tool. I use a 22 × 30 × 2 cm one. It’s also good to have a smaller one as well. OKA is a higher-end brand.
tool	Pony	I can’t find the pony I’m using anymore. If I were to buy one again, I’d go with DreamFactory. It seems more versatile.
tool	Needle	This is the best-quality needle I’ve used. I mainly use size No. 4, and Vinymo SuperSew MBT No. 5 for saddle stitching. It pairs well with KS Blade chisels.
tool	Edge beveller	This is a handmade edge beveler made by a Korean craftsman. It cuts the leather smoothly without being pushed it. I use #1.
tool	Round Cutter	This tool is used to round off sharp right-angle edges of leather. It is made in Korea, features a very sharp blade, and cuts cleanly with minimal effort.
tool	Glass Slicker	This is a glass plate used for burnishing the back of leather. The products I recommend have very smooth glass edges and do not scratch the leather.
tool	Wood Slicker	This is an ebony wood slicker used for finishing the edges of leather. It features four grooves, making it easy to work with different leather thicknesses. Made from dense ebony wood, it provides a smooth and consistent finish.
tool	Adjustable Edge Creaser	This is a tool used to draw sewing guide lines and decorative lines. The product I use is from “iwataya” (first link), and the other links are similar alternatives.
tool	Reverse Tweezers	It’s useful when you need to hold lightweight items for a long time. I use it when working on edge finishing.
tool	Edge Applicator	I use this container with Tokonole. I looked for a place that sells it, but there seems to be only one place that ships overseas. Search for "Tokonole Marker" and you'll find a replacement.
tool	Rawhide Mallet	It’s lightweight and sturdy, so I use it when punching holes with a pricking iron on thin leather. I use a mallet with a 4–4.5 cm diameter head.
tool	Rubber Mallet	It’s a rubber mallet with a nice weight to it, so it works well for punching thick leather. Because it’s rubber, it’s not very loud. I use a 400 g one. It hits hard, so be careful not to punch through the leather.
tool	Rivoir Hammer	After stitching, I use it to flatten the leather. After purchase, sand the face smooth before the first use. I use Vergez Blanchard No. 1, and the second link is a great value too.
tool	Divider	It is good for various purposes because the price can be adjusted and fixed.
tool	Teflon Bone Folder	I use a Teflon bone folder to smooth the leather surface and to separate areas inside pockets where glue has accidentally bonded. The low-friction Teflon material helps prevent marks or scratches, making it suitable for delicate work.
tool	Flat Clamp	It is mainly used to firmly press bonded areas of leather, helping them adhere securely by applying strong compression. The product in the third link is cost-effective.
tool	Hand Press	A hand press is used to set snaps, rivets, and other metal hardware with interchangeable dies. It applies consistent pressure for precise and secure results. A floating lower base structure is practical.
tool	Thread Zapper	A thread burner is a small electric tool used to trim and seal thread ends with heat. It melts synthetic threads slightly to prevent fraying and creates a clean finish.
supplies	TOKONOLE	Loved by leather workers worldwide, Tokonole is a non-toxic burnishing gum made from natural waxes that smooths the flesh side and edges of leather for a clean, professional finish. I only use the clear (neutral) version.
supplies	Magic Sponge	I cut it into small pieces and use it to apply small amounts of solution. It has good absorbency and spreads evenly.
supplies	Water-based Adhesives	It is good to use in a pleasant environment because it does not smell. The adhesion is also good, and the leather surface is clean because it is a transparent color when dry.
supplies	Thread	I use Vinymo SuperSew MBT No. 5. It’s bonded, so it doesn’t fray easily. It also works great for hand stitching, so I keep using it.
supplies	Cotton Canvas	This cloth is used for burnishing when finishing the cross section of leather.
hardware	Snaps	This is the snap I use regularly. Its shape and size are unique, so it requires a dedicated setter. Please contact the seller for the correct setter.
machine	Clicker Press	A clicker press is a press machine that uses a clicker die to cut leather accurately and efficiently. I recommend products from DreamFactory.
machine	Hot Stamping	The hot stamping machine I use is quite old and difficult to find now. If I were to buy a new one, I would choose a model from DreamFactory. It is on the expensive side, but the functionality and precision are excellent.
machine	Skiving Machine	Skiving machines are large and heavy, so shipping can be difficult. I recommend purchasing from a seller in your own country whenever possible. If available, I suggest a used Nippy NP-201 from Japan.
equipment	Camera	I use the Fujifilm X-T4 when filming for YouTube. It has a vari-angle LCD screen, which makes it great for solo shooting. I don’t recommend it for 4K recording.
equipment	Lens	I use the Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 for Fujifilm. I chose it for its excellent sharpness, bright constant aperture, and lightweight design. It’s a very good lens.
equipment	Microphone	I use the RØDE NTG5 because the sounds in my workshop are subtle. Its very low self-noise helps capture quiet details clearly. It’s expensive, so I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone.

leather

Freedom

Freedom leather is a Buttero-based oil pull-up smooth leather. This is a hard type of leather that reveals its true color when the leather is bent or folded. This is leather where you can feel many changes in the leather surface as you use it.

leather

Buttero

Buttero leather is vegetable leather made from the highest quality French raw hides. This is a hard type of leather. The tissue is dense and dense, and the surface is smooth and soft.

leather

Pueblo

Pueblo leather is a type of vegetable leather that is slightly scratched by rolling an iron ball on the surface of the leather. We used the vacchetta technique to process it using natural oil with added cow shin bone powder.

leather

Minerva

Minerva leather is a Plain type vegetable leather and contains a lot of oil. We used the Vachetta technique, which involves adding beef shank powder to natural oil and processing it. It feels matte at first, but as you use it, the shine increases and the color deepens.

leather

Minerva Box

Minerva box leather is a milled vegetable leather rich in natural oils. It is processed using the Vachetta method, adding cow shank powder to oil during tanning. The surface features natural embossing that appears uneven and organic. With use, the leather develops a deeper shine and character.

leather

Gaucho Oil

Gaucho Oil by Conceria La Bretagna is a Vachetta leather developed in 1974, inspired by South American gauchos. It combines a glossy grain surface with strong pull-up, creating depth and elegance through rich oils and a wide range of colors.

leather

Kansas

Kansas leather is vegetable tanned leather that is dyed and milled for softness, then finished with surface oil. While it shares the same base color as Buttero, differences in the finishing process result in distinct color tones.

leather

Camo Belly

Camo Belly leather is vegetable tanned and camo plage printed leather.

leather

Bridle

When making bridle side leather, the surface is soaked for a long time with tallow, a mixture of beef tallow and cod oil. Bridle leather is known in the UK for horse saddles and is one of the most durable vegetable-tanned leathers.

tool

Leather Cutter

This is leather knife called “Hidetsugu” made in Japan. It is inexpensive and performs well. Remember the imprint on the blade. I use the 39mm size.

tool

Utility Knife

It has a sharp blade with a 30-degree angle. This makes it especially useful for cutting leather with lots of curves. However, be careful when working with thick leather.

tool

Rotary Cutter

It is a rotary cutter that cuts by rolling a round blade. It is comfortable to use for straight cuts, and especially useful when cutting soft leather, as it helps prevent the leather from shifting.

tool

Hole Punch

This is a tool used to punch round holes in leather. Rather than buying every size at once, it’s better to add only the sizes you need, one by one.

tool

Stitching Chisel

This tool is for making stitching holes. The smooth blades make it easy to pull out after punching. I use 4mm diamond chisels in 8- and 2-tooth. Crimson Hides is also a great brand.

tool

Punching Board

I place it under the leather when punching to protect the edge of the tool. I use a 22 × 30 × 2 cm one. It’s also good to have a smaller one as well. OKA is a higher-end brand.

tool

Pony

I can’t find the pony I’m using anymore. If I were to buy one again, I’d go with DreamFactory. It seems more versatile.

tool

Needle

This is the best-quality needle I’ve used. I mainly use size No. 4, and Vinymo SuperSew MBT No. 5 for saddle stitching. It pairs well with KS Blade chisels.

tool

Edge beveller

This is a handmade edge beveler made by a Korean craftsman. It cuts the leather smoothly without being pushed it. I use #1.

tool

Round Cutter

This tool is used to round off sharp right-angle edges of leather. It is made in Korea, features a very sharp blade, and cuts cleanly with minimal effort.

tool

Glass Slicker

This is a glass plate used for burnishing the back of leather. The products I recommend have very smooth glass edges and do not scratch the leather.

tool

Wood Slicker

This is an ebony wood slicker used for finishing the edges of leather. It features four grooves, making it easy to work with different leather thicknesses. Made from dense ebony wood, it provides a smooth and consistent finish.

tool

Adjustable Edge Creaser

This is a tool used to draw sewing guide lines and decorative lines. The product I use is from “iwataya” (first link), and the other links are similar alternatives.

tool

Reverse Tweezers

It’s useful when you need to hold lightweight items for a long time. I use it when working on edge finishing.

tool

Edge Applicator

I use this container with Tokonole. I looked for a place that sells it, but there seems to be only one place that ships overseas. Search for "Tokonole Marker" and you'll find a replacement.

tool

Rawhide Mallet

It’s lightweight and sturdy, so I use it when punching holes with a pricking iron on thin leather. I use a mallet with a 4–4.5 cm diameter head.

tool

Rubber Mallet

It’s a rubber mallet with a nice weight to it, so it works well for punching thick leather. Because it’s rubber, it’s not very loud. I use a 400 g one. It hits hard, so be careful not to punch through the leather.

tool

Rivoir Hammer

After stitching, I use it to flatten the leather. After purchase, sand the face smooth before the first use. I use Vergez Blanchard No. 1, and the second link is a great value too.

tool

Divider

It is good for various purposes because the price can be adjusted and fixed.

tool

Teflon Bone Folder

I use a Teflon bone folder to smooth the leather surface and to separate areas inside pockets where glue has accidentally bonded. The low-friction Teflon material helps prevent marks or scratches, making it suitable for delicate work.

tool

Flat Clamp

It is mainly used to firmly press bonded areas of leather, helping them adhere securely by applying strong compression. The product in the third link is cost-effective.

tool

Hand Press

A hand press is used to set snaps, rivets, and other metal hardware with interchangeable dies. It applies consistent pressure for precise and secure results. A floating lower base structure is practical.

tool

Thread Zapper

A thread burner is a small electric tool used to trim and seal thread ends with heat. It melts synthetic threads slightly to prevent fraying and creates a clean finish.

supplies

TOKONOLE

Loved by leather workers worldwide, Tokonole is a non-toxic burnishing gum made from natural waxes that smooths the flesh side and edges of leather for a clean, professional finish. I only use the clear (neutral) version.

supplies

Magic Sponge

I cut it into small pieces and use it to apply small amounts of solution. It has good absorbency and spreads evenly.

supplies

Water-based Adhesives

It is good to use in a pleasant environment because it does not smell. The adhesion is also good, and the leather surface is clean because it is a transparent color when dry.

supplies

Thread

I use Vinymo SuperSew MBT No. 5. It’s bonded, so it doesn’t fray easily. It also works great for hand stitching, so I keep using it.

supplies

Cotton Canvas

This cloth is used for burnishing when finishing the cross section of leather.

hardware

Snaps

This is the snap I use regularly. Its shape and size are unique, so it requires a dedicated setter. Please contact the seller for the correct setter.

machine

Clicker Press

A clicker press is a press machine that uses a clicker die to cut leather accurately and efficiently. I recommend products from DreamFactory.

machine

Hot Stamping

The hot stamping machine I use is quite old and difficult to find now. If I were to buy a new one, I would choose a model from DreamFactory. It is on the expensive side, but the functionality and precision are excellent.

machine

Skiving Machine

Skiving machines are large and heavy, so shipping can be difficult. I recommend purchasing from a seller in your own country whenever possible. If available, I suggest a used Nippy NP-201 from Japan.

equipment

Camera

I use the Fujifilm X-T4 when filming for YouTube. It has a vari-angle LCD screen, which makes it great for solo shooting. I don’t recommend it for 4K recording.

equipment

Lens

I use the Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 for Fujifilm. I chose it for its excellent sharpness, bright constant aperture, and lightweight design. It’s a very good lens.

equipment

Microphone

I use the RØDE NTG5 because the sounds in my workshop are subtle. Its very low self-noise helps capture quiet details clearly. It’s expensive, so I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone.

If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact me by email. Thank you.